Head towards Calvi Airport, but instead of turning into the airport complex, go straight on towards Galeria and Porto. Leaving the airport and vineyards behind you, you soon approach a fork in the road where the main road to Galeria goes off to the right and a much smaller road goes straight on.
This is the road you want if you want to go to the Forest of Bonifatu. A few kilometres beyond the junction, the road climbs and the scenery becomes more mountainous. The road ends in a large car park – of a sort – on several levels. Go down to the bottom level and you can take a footpath to the river about 50m below you. Stay at the top, and you can head up towards the GR20 – the arduous footpath highway of Corsica that extends from Calenzana in the northwest to the deep south – a journey of 15 days, for the fit.
We headed down, with my son’s youngster of six months held in a special secure carrying frame. When we got to the bottom we decided to swim in the river. Even in early October, it was freezing. Whenever we come here, the river is always cold. But the scenery is amazing here with mountains visible even from the deepest valleys. There were little trout flitting about in the shallows; but the river was deep enough to swim out of your depth in the bigger pools.
It’s a bit of a drive. Why do we keep coming back here? Probably because it gets near Corsica’s heart in some strange way.